However, spoof Dickensian comedy and high proof home brew only feel the soul, the stomach requires something more substantial. However, can anybody tell me what's missing from this by-now-classic Heston dish?

Pancetta is the obvious answer, but I presume you all noticed the lack of egg yolks? I only had one which whilst hardly disastrous, certainly made it less unctuous.
sources
heston's pea & pancetta spaghetti - Waitrose Weekend, 16th September, p10
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